Yanmen Pass, Shanxi – The Firest Pass of China

Yanmen Pass (雁门关) is a crucial part of the Great Wall of China, a World Heritage Site, renowned for its strategic importance and perilous position. It, along with Ningwu Pass and Pian Pass, is known as one of the “Outer Three Passes.” Yanmen Pass is the oldest, most frequently contested, and most well-known of these ancient passes, earning it the title “The First Pass of China.” Its history dates back over 2,000 years to the Warring States period when Zhao Wuling Wang fought against the Xiongnu here.

The pass’s fortifications are built in accordance with the mountainous terrain, with a perimeter of over 5 kilometers. The southern end of the city wall connects to the eastern and western wings of the pass, while the northern side extends along the ridge to encircle the valley below, where a city gate is situated. Outside the city walls are three large stone walls and 25 smaller stone walls, serving as additional barriers.

To the north of the pass, on a nearby hill, are the ruins of military barracks from the Ming and Qing dynasties, and to the southeast, there is a drill ground. Outside the western gate stands the Temple of Guan Yu, and to the east of the gate is the Jingbian Shrine, dedicated to the famous general Li Mu of the Warring States period. The shrine now only retains a stone platform, stone lions, a stone flagpole, and several Ming and Qing inscriptions.

Table of Contents

• Basic Information
• Location and Transportation
• Highlights of Yanmen Pass
  • Ancient Yanmen Pass
  • Ming Yanmen Pass
  • Tianxian Gate and Yan Tower
  • Zhenbian Temple (Li Mu Temple)
  • Yanmen Pass Great Wall
  • Guanyin Hall
• Vlog about Yanmen Pass
• History of Yanmen Pass

Basic Information

Location and Transportation

Yanmen Pass is located in the Yanmen Mountains, approximately 20 kilometers north of Daixian County in Xinzhou City (the same city where Mount Wutai is located), Shanxi Province. To reach Yanmen Pass, you can take a bus from Daixian Bus Station directly to the pass. However, the most convenient way to visit is by driving, as it offers greater flexibility and ease of access.

Highlights of Yanmen Pass

Ancient Yanmen Pass

Ancient Yanmen Pass, also known as Tieguo Gate, has historically been a key military and political stronghold in northern China. Significant events such as “Emperor Gaozu’s Northern Campaign,” “Wang Zhaojun’s Departure for the Frontier,” “The Capture of Emperors Qin and Hui of the Song Dynasty,” and “The Yang Family Generals Defending the Three Passes” are all associated with this location. The pass is situated at the top of Gouzhu Mountain, outside of Tieguo Gate. Named for its black-brown stone gorge, Tieguo Gate is a man-made pass with a “V” shape, with a width of 30 meters at the top, 3 meters at the bottom, a depth of 200 meters, and a length of 50 meters. The fortifications are strategically constructed with a wall width of about 20 meters east to west and a length of approximately 200 meters north to south. The remaining structures include the surrounding wall base, four building foundations to the south, and a beacon tower to the north. The city wall stands 10 meters high and measures around 1 kilometer in perimeter. The wall is built with a stone foundation, filled with rammed earth, and covered with brick, featuring crenellations.

Ming Yanmen Pass

Ming Yanmen Pass is located at Dongxiong Pass, named for its position to the east of Gouzhu Mountain, on the eastern side of the Xionglin Ridge. During the Ming Dynasty, Yanmen Pass was expanded and rebuilt at the site of Dongxiong Pass, with the new structure encompassing the eighteen passes of the Northern Song Dynasty. Fortified castles were constructed at each pass, with the Great Wall connecting them, forming a new military defense system centered around Yanmen Pass. This system extended 300 li from Pingxing Pass to Xuangang Pass. The walled city, situated to the north of the pass and outside of the advantageous terrain gate, is half the height of the main pass and features a concealed door. The small northern gate, known as the “Little North Gate,” has a stone arch with the inscription “雁门关” in large characters. On either side of the gate, a brick inscription reads: “Three-front crucial site, unmatched in its importance; Nine passes revere this first pass.” Each character is carved into a brick, and the inscription is said to be the work of the Ming Dynasty calligrapher Fu Shan.

Tianxian Gate and Yan Tower

Tianxian Gate, located on the southern side of the fort city, is the first gate on the southern defenses. It features a stone foundation and brick arch, standing 12.5 meters high. The walls are equipped with crenellations, and the gate has a single plank door with a paved path of blue stone slabs.

Above Tianxian Gate stands Yan Tower, which faces east and has five bays in width and four bays in depth, surrounded by corridors. The building features a double-eaved hip roof. The front section of the roof has a dividing door, while the middle section has a brick wall. The rear has two circular windows, with the rest built of brick. The roof is covered with gray-green tiles and adorned with large ridge beasts at both ends and wind chimes at the corners. The main structure dates back to the Ming Dynasty, with damaged parts restored to their original state in 2010, reflecting the architectural style of the Ming era. The plaque above the gate reads “Tianxian” in seal script. The stone slabs inside the gate are original from the Ming Dynasty, bearing clear traces of wheel tracks from over 600 years ago.

Zhenbian Temple (Li Mu Temple)

Zhenbian Temple, located on the east side outside Tianxian Gate, covers an area of 3,190 square meters with a building area of 1,510 square meters. It is one of the largest architectural complexes at Yanmen Pass and is also known as Wu’an Jun Temple, Jingbian Temple, or Zhenbian Temple.

Constructed in 1506 to honor Li Mu, a general from the Zhao State during the Warring States period, it was originally called Wu’an Jun Temple, commonly known as Li Mu Temple. In 1856, the monk Shan Quan built a Buddhist temple on the site of the old Li Mu Temple and renamed it Huguo Zhenbian Temple. Despite being a Buddhist temple, it still housed a statue of General Li Mu, making it a combined Buddhist and commemorative structure.

After the Japanese army occupied Yanmen Pass in 1937, the temple was severely damaged, leaving only the foundation. Since 2009, the temple has been reconstructed to its original appearance and renamed Zhenbian Temple. It now serves as an exhibition hall showcasing famous defenders from the Western Zhou to the Ming Dynasty, including Ji Xing, Li Mu, Xue Rengui, and the Yang Family Generals, spanning over 2,600 years of historical military figures.

Yanmen Pass Great Wall

The Yanmen Pass section of the Great Wall was rebuilt by the Ming Dynasty’s Inspector Li Jingyuan in the 33rd year of the Wanli era (1605) on the site of the ancient Wall. Stretching from Baicao Pass in the west to Xin Guangwu in the east, it stands 8 to 10 meters high, with a width of 4.6 meters and a total length of 5,033 meters. The Wall features enemy towers constructed every 120 meters. Existing intact towers include “Zhenjing,” “Konglong,” “Zhuanglu,” and “Tianshan.” In addition, the Wall is equipped with beacon towers and moats, representing a significant example of Ming Dynasty architecture.

Guanyin Hall

Guanyin Hall is located on the western side of the ancient road south of the pass, just south of Yanmen Pass. Serving as a crucial transit point for travelers and merchants moving day and night along the ancient route, the hall was an important site for continuous worship. Originally built during the Ming Dynasty and renovated during the Qing Dynasty, Guanyin Hall was destroyed by Japanese invaders in 1937.

In August 2009, it was rebuilt with pure stone materials. The hall now houses a statue of Guanyin, sculpted from white marble, featuring the “Four-Faced Guanyin” with representations of Sheng Guanyin, Ruyi Guanyin, Ma Tou Guanyin, Ruyi Guanyin, and the Eleven-Faced Guanyin, symbolizing protection for travelers and devotees in all directions.

Vlog about Yanmen Pass

History of Yanmen Pass

Yanmen Pass, known for its strategic importance and historic battles, has been a significant military site throughout Chinese history. Its origins trace back over 2,000 years to the Warring States period, when Zhao Wuling Wang, the King of Zhao, initiated military reforms and introduced the use of cavalry and armored horsemen. This transformation allowed Zhao to successfully repel invasions by the Linhu and Loufan tribes and establish the territories of Yunzhong, Yanmen, and Dai.

Later, Li Mu was stationed at Yanmen Pass to defend against the Xiongnu. His military acumen and fortifications at Yanmen significantly weakened the Xiongnu’s ability to invade Zhao territory. For several years, the Xiongnu were unable to breach Zhao’s defenses, and Li Mu’s victories led him to be revered as a military genius. In his honor, the Jinbian Temple was built at Yanmen Pass to commemorate his contributions to border defense and protection of the people.

After the unification of China under the Qin Dynasty, Emperor Qin Shi Huang dispatched General Meng Tian with an army of 300,000 to push north from Yanmen Pass. Meng Tian defeated the Xiongnu and expanded the territory into the Hexi Corridor, pushing the Xiongnu beyond the Yin Mountains. This military campaign was pivotal in establishing the Great Wall as a defense against northern invasions.

During the Han Dynasty, the Xiongnu continued to pose a threat. Emperor Liu Bang of the Han faced the Xiongnu’s encroachments, leading to Han General Wei Qing and his nephew Huo Qubing’s numerous victories at Yanmen Pass. General Li Guang, known as the “Flying General,” also fought against the Xiongnu in this region, earning a reputation for his bravery and tactical prowess.

In the Han Yuan Dynasty, Wang Zhaojun, one of the Four Beauties of ancient China, was sent from Yanmen Pass as part of a diplomatic marriage to the Xiongnu. This event led to a period of peace, famously described as “remote cities locked shut, cattle and horses spread across the fields, and three generations without a dog barking or a weapon drawn,” indicating the stability achieved through this diplomatic move.

The name “Yanmen Pass” first appeared during the early Tang Dynasty. Following the rise of the northern Turks and frequent incursions, the Tang Dynasty stationed troops at Yanmen Mountain. A fortification, known as Iron-Wrapped Gate, was constructed at the high point to defend against these invasions. The Tang Book describes the area as having steep, rugged mountains with a winding path, with the pass built at a high elevation known as the Western Pass, also called Yanmen Pass.

In the early Northern Song Dynasty, Yanmen Pass was a battlefield of intense conflict between the Song Dynasty and the Liao (Khitan) Empire. The patriotic general Yang Ye, also known as Yang Jiye, and his soldiers fought valiantly at this pass. In 979, Yang Ye, then the governor of Dai County, achieved multiple victories against the Liao troops with a small force, earning him the title of “Invincible Yang.”

In 986, during a fierce battle near Yanmen, Yang Ye faced severe challenges and eventually succumbed to injuries, his troops defeated. Yang Ye’s sacrifice was honored for his steadfast defense and dedication to his country.

Throughout the Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms period, the Song, Liao, Jin, and Yuan Dynasties, spanning over 400 years, saw continued conflict and shifts in control. During the Yuan Dynasty, the pass was heavily damaged as the Yuan established its own military fortifications.

During the Ming Dynasty, Duke Lu Xiang of Jian’an rebuilt Yanmen Pass in 1374, establishing a new fortification 10 miles northeast of the old site. This new location was strategically positioned to enhance defense capabilities, with a southern distance of over 40 miles to Daixian County and a northern proximity of 21 miles to the ancient city of Guangwu.

Despite numerous reconstructions during the Ming and Qing Dynasties, the significance of Yanmen Pass as a defense diminished with the unification of China’s territorial borders. The pass fell into disuse, leaving only the remnants of the East Gate, West Gate, Small North Gate, and a pair of stone lions in front of the Jinbian Temple, along with a stone tablet and several ancient pines behind the temple.

In September 1937, during the Second Sino-Japanese War, the Communist Party sent Zhou Enlai, Peng Dehuai, and Peng Xuefeng to meet with the Nationalist General Yan Xishan at the Taihe Ridge of Yanmen Mountain to coordinate resistance efforts. On October 18, 1937, after Yan Xishan withdrew, the Eighth Route Army ambushed a Japanese supply convoy near Yanmen Pass, destroying over 400 vehicles and securing a significant victory that shocked the world.

On June 25, 2001, Yanmen Pass was officially recognized as a significant historical site and was listed as a key national cultural heritage site by the State Council.