Balagezong Scenic Area, Shangrila – A Paradise Inhabited by Deities

Gezong Snow Mountain, straddling the border of Shangri-La City in Yunnan and Derong County in Sichuan’s Ganzi Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture, is the highest peak in Shangri-La City at 5,545 meters. Known locally as “Gezong Bensong,” which translates to the incarnation of the Three Sisters of Longevity and Good Fortune, this mountain is revered as a sacred site by the local Tibetan people. Its steep slopes and rugged terrain have contributed to its mystique, and as of 2018, there are no recorded ascents due to the mountain’s protected status and its challenging topography.

The mountain is perpetually covered in snow, with the heaviest snowfall occurring between December and May, making it almost entirely blanketed in ice and snow during these months. The pristine snow-covered landscape is breathtaking but remains largely untouched due to its inaccessibility. However, from May to November, the area becomes a pilgrimage site for Tibetan Buddhists, nature photographers, and adventurers. Many undertake the arduous journey to circumnavigate the mountain or cross its high passes, seeking to experience the spiritual and natural wonders of this sacred peak.

Bala Village, whose name is derived from a Tibetan term meaning “Tibetan village resided by migrants from Batang,” is perched on the mountainside at an elevation of 2,900 meters, nestled within the Shangri-La Grand Canyon under the shadow of Balagezong Snow Mountain. The village is located about 700 meters up from the Gangqu River Valley. According to local legend, over 1,300 years ago, during the era of King Gesar, a formidable Tibetan chieftain named Sna Dorji from Batang led his people in search of a peaceful, secluded land. Tired of the constant strife, Dorji’s wife, Renqinglamu, along with an old lama, set off to find a utopia away from the turmoil. Sna Dorji, abandoning his wealth, power, and vast territories, followed in search of a war-free paradise. Their journey ended in Balagezong, where they settled, leading to the establishment of Bala Village.

Today, Bala Village remains a serene and picturesque settlement, offering visitors a glimpse into the traditional Tibetan way of life. The village’s location provides stunning views of the surrounding landscapes, including the snow-capped peaks and deep gorges. Visitors can explore the ancient Tibetan culture, with its distinct architecture and customs, and capture the essence of rural Tibetan life.

The Shangri-La Grand Canyon, with an elevation of 2,200 meters, is one of the most profound gorges in Yunnan and even across China. Spanning approximately 154 kilometers in length, the canyon differs from the typical V-shaped valleys most are familiar with. Instead, it features a distinctive U-shape with steep walls and a broader bottom, giving it a unique and imposing character. The canyon is renowned for its dramatic depth, rugged beauty, and intricate network of sub-canyons and side valleys. This labyrinthine structure, with its multitude of intersecting and connecting gorges, creates a complex and majestic landscape that stands out as one of the primary attractions of the Balagezong Scenic Area.

Within the 154-kilometer main canyon, numerous tributary canyons extend outwards, with more than a hundred smaller gorges branching off from the main valley. This extensive network of gorges showcases a variety of geological formations and offers countless opportunities for exploration and adventure.

The Shambhala Pagoda, also known as “Xiangququdeng” in Tibetan, stands at an elevation of 4,050 meters. The term “qudeng” translates to “stupa” in Tibetan, and these structures are traditionally white, hence also referred to as “Qudeng Gabo” or “White Pagoda.” These religious edifices are designed to house sacred relics and scriptures. In the Balagezong Scenic Area, the natural mountain formation resembling a stupa is especially striking. Covered in snow, this natural pagoda becomes even more enchanting, earning it the name “Natural Pagoda.”

The Shambhala Pagoda is located northeast of Balagezong Snow Mountain and stands as a natural pyramid-shaped peak draped in snow, creating a majestic and serene presence against the sky. This peak, alongside nearby formations that resemble a seated lama and sacred texts, collectively represents the three treasures of Buddhism: the Buddha, the Dharma (teachings), and the Sangha (monastic community). According to legend, these formations were prophesied by the Buddha Shakyamuni to be an ethereal pagoda at the edge of the world.

The Millennium Bodhi Tree is a venerable tree that has stood for over 3,000 years. Unlike typical Bodhi trees that stand alone with branches spreading out in all directions, this unique tree clings to the cliff face, spreading its branches and leaves across the rock surface like a peacock displaying its feathers. This distinctive feature has earned it the name “Phoenix Bodhi Tree.”

This ancient tree, thriving through the centuries, remains lush and vibrant, a testament to its resilience and the mystical energy of the land it inhabits. Local legend adds an extra layer of mystique to the tree; it is said that one night, a few years ago, a branch miraculously grew into the shape of Buddha’s left hand. This extraordinary event has only enhanced the tree’s spiritual significance, making it a sacred and awe-inspiring sight for visitors.

Tongtian Gorge, also known as Deqinka, is one of the most striking sub-canyons of the Shangri-La Grand Canyon. This U-shaped gorge extends approximately 4,000 meters from the valley floor to the top. The gorge is characterized by its steep, curtain-like cliffs that rise a thousand meters high on either side, creating a narrow, dramatic passage that reaches up to the sky.

The depth and narrowness of the gorge give it a dark and foreboding atmosphere, reminiscent of a descent into the underworld. Echoes reverberate through the chasm, adding to the eerie ambiance. Gazing up from the valley floor, visitors see a narrow strip of sky framed by towering rock walls, creating a natural spectacle where the heavens and the earth seem to converge.

Historically, human activity in this gorge dates back over 1,300 years, but no one traversed its entirety to reach the snow-capped peaks beyond until modern pathways were constructed. Today, a well-maintained walkway allows adventurers to navigate the gorge, pass cascading waterfalls, and reach the inner recesses of this majestic formation, providing breathtaking views and a sense of awe as they look up at the narrow slice of sky above.

Naidang Pasture, situated at an elevation of 3,700 meters on the slopes of Balagezong Snow Mountain, holds a significant place in the history of the Balagezong people. According to local lore, the ancestors of the Balage people, led by Sna Dorji, first settled here after migrating from Batang. Attracted by the lush, verdant pastures and the suitability for habitation, the tribe lived in Naidang Pasture for three years before moving to the lower-altitude Balage Village at 2,900 meters. This pasture is therefore considered a crucial part of the tribe’s heritage.

Naidang Pasture is the closest grazing ground to Balagezong Snow Mountain. Surrounded by mountains and carpeted with green grass, the area enjoys ample rainfall, creating an ideal environment for raising cattle and sheep. The picturesque scenery, coupled with the pleasant climate, makes it a perfect spot for pastoral life. Here, nearly every household from Balage Village has a small, fortress-like stone house, typically three to four meters high. These two-story structures have cattle sheds on the lower level and living quarters above, connected by a single wooden ladder. The stone houses are built close together, forming a unique highland village of stone lanes and pastures.

Bandanram Sacred Mountain, also known as the “Goddess of Luck” or “Glorious Queen,” is revered in Tibetan Buddhism as the foremost female protector deity of the esoteric tradition. Originally a major deity in Brahmanism, Bandanram was later incorporated into Tibetan Buddhism as a guardian deity and the granter of worldly wishes.

In the collective memory of the Balage people, Bandanram holds a special place. Before the construction of modern roads and communication networks, the men of Balage Village would embark on long journeys to Shangri-La County to trade essential goods like salt and tea. These trips could take anywhere from a week to half a month. Upon their return, as they reached the halfway point near Bandanram’s sacred spot, they would fire their guns into the air. Hearing the gunshots, the women in Balage Village would know that their men were coming home and would prepare traditional foods like butter tea and tsampa to welcome the weary travelers. The children would eagerly wait at the village entrance, filled with anticipation. Over time, Bandanram Sacred Mountain became a natural resting place for returning villagers, a symbol of reunion and the end of long journeys.

The Baladayon Stupas comprise a group of eight pristine white stupas, each dedicated to a significant figure in Tibetan Buddhism: Buddha Shakyamuni, Guru Rinpoche, the Buddha of Longevity, the Four-Armed Avalokiteshvara, Manjushri, Yellow Jambhala, Ushnishavijaya, and Tara. These stupas collectively symbolize the “Eight Auspicious Symbols” in Tibetan culture, bestowing blessings of favorable weather and prosperous livestock upon the Balage people.

Devout pilgrims believe that circumambulating the stupas clockwise not only brings good fortune but also helps to cleanse sins and accumulate merit. The stupa group stands as a sacred space where the spiritual and earthly realms converge, providing a serene environment for reflection and prayer.

The Zhuoma Temple, known locally as Zhuoma Lhakang, was originally constructed over 1,300 years ago by the chieftain Sna Dorji behind the Baladayon mansion. The temple has been rebuilt on the site of the ancient 21 Tara Hall due to its age. It houses 21 statues of Tara, the female deity of compassion and protector of the people in Tibetan Buddhism. Tara is venerated for her role in saving beings from suffering and is widely worshipped across Tibetan Buddhist regions.

The temple serves as the primary site for the Balage people to perform rituals during major festivals and on the fifteenth day of the first lunar month. The temple is divided into two floors: the ground floor features the Thousand-Buddha Hall, with the central statue being Amitabha, the Buddha of Infinite Light, who presides over the Western Paradise.

Known in Tibetan as “Shisha Andong,” the Echo Wall is a natural marvel located on the eastern petal of the lotus-shaped Balagezong landscape. Unlike other verdant, forested mountains, this area has sparse vegetation and towering, sheer cliffs. Shouting towards this unique rock wall creates an impressive echo, with the sound waves bouncing back and forth, creating a continuous reverberation.

The Echo Wall is a popular spot for the musically inclined villagers of Bala, who enjoy singing traditional songs here. The natural acoustics provided by the wall add depth and resonance to their melodies, enriching the ancient songs with harmonious overtones. Visitors can experience the magic of these natural echoes and the cultural significance they hold for the local community.

A narrow, precarious path visible on the cliffside, once the sole route between Balage Village and the upstream village of Nagra, serves as a historical testament to the challenging lives of the canyon’s inhabitants. Today, an 1,106-meter-long walkway with strategically placed viewing platforms allows visitors to safely explore this dramatic landscape and capture stunning photographs.