Fenghuang Ancient Town – A Phoenix Spreading its Wings

Tian Family Ancestral Hall is situated on Laoying Shao Street, along the north bank of the Tuojiang River. It was initially built in the 17th year of the Daoguang era (1837) by Tian Xingzhu, a Miao ethnic official from Fenghuang who served as a commissioner and governor of Guizhou. The hall was later completed with significant investment from Tian Yingzhao, the Nationalist general and son of Tian Xingzhu, during the early Republic of China period. This ancestral hall is an impressive representation of clan architecture, featuring a grand entrance, main hall, stage, and over 20 rooms. It includes courtyards, a celestial pool, and corridors, as well as ceremonial gates inscribed with “Five Blessings” and “Six Successes.”

The entrance boasts a six-tiered, fan-shaped staircase made of red sandstone, leading to a spacious forecourt. The central gate is shaped like an eight, flanked by two side sections made of blue bricks, which are adorned with a pair of stone elephants and stone drums, adding to the hall’s grandeur. The main hall showcases a combination of beam and purlin construction with a hard mountain roof, measuring 20 meters in height, depth, and width. The columns rest on stone drum bases, with a cat-backed mountain wall and cobblestone steps leading to the main entrance.

Shen Congwen‘s Grave is located in an area originally known as Dumu Garden, which was a garden built by Tian Xingzhu during the Qing Dynasty for his mother, Du. The tomb is characterized by its simplicity, lacking a raised mound or elaborate decorations. Instead, it is marked by an irregularly shaped, multicolored natural stone that stands 1.9 meters tall and weighs over 6 tons, serving as a unique symbol of Shen Congwen’s grave. The front of the stone features a replica of Shen Congwen’s handwriting, while the back is inscribed with an epitaph written by Professor Zhang Chonghe of Yale University and a tribute carved by Professor Liu Huanxu, a renowned sculptor from the Central Academy of Fine Arts and Shen Congwen’s nephew by marriage.

The North Gate Ancient City Tower, originally known as “Bihui,” was established during the Ming Dynasty. Located on the northern side of Fenghuang, it served as the administrative center during the Yuan and Ming Dynasties. The town was initially fortified with an earth wall. During the Jiajing period of the Ming Dynasty, the garrison was relocated from Mayang to here, and in the 35th year of Jiajing (1556), the earth wall was reconstructed into a brick city with four main gates, each topped with a tower.

In the Qing Dynasty, Fenghuang Hall and other military offices were established here, and in the 54th year of the Kangxi era (1715), the brick city was further rebuilt into a stone city, and the North Gate was renamed “Bihui Gate,” which has been preserved to this day. The North Gate Ancient City Tower is constructed from local red sandstone, showcasing exquisite craftsmanship. The gate has a semi-circular arch and two iron-clad doors, reinforced with large iron nails. The tower features a double-eaved hip roof and a purlin-style wooden structure, sitting atop a stone base. On the exterior of the tower, there are gunports on two levels, with four on each level, allowing for a 180-degree view for defense.

Chen Dou Nan Courtyard was built in the 28th year of the Guangxu era (1902) and is located at No. 1 Wu Family Alley in the ancient city, nestled between the East Gate Tower and the Yang Family Ancestral Hall. Covering an area of 366.6 square meters, it consists of a front hall, courtyard, main hall, and back hall, forming a typical Jiangnan-style Siheyuan (courtyard house) with a surrounding fireproof wall.

The courtyard served as a general’s residence during the Republic of China period, producing two major generals in the National Revolutionary Army. General Chen Dou Nan (1886-1931) was a close associate of He Long during their time together in the Xiangxi garrison from 1924 to 1925. He participated in the Second Northern Expedition in 1926 and later supported He Long’s revolutionary efforts in Hunan and Hubei.

The ancestral mud sculpture of the Chen family is a masterpiece created by Master Zhang Qiutan, a descendant of the famous mud sculptor Zhang Ruanren. This work has received high praise from experts and professors, being regarded as a national-level and even world-class example of mud sculpture artistry.

The Tuojiang Stilt Houses are located at Huilong Pavilion in the southeastern part of the ancient city, overlooking the ancient official road and suspended above the Tuo River. This architectural group is one of the most distinctive examples of Miao architecture in Fenghuang Ancient Town. The stilt houses stretch 240 meters in length and date back to the Qing Dynasty and early Republic of China period.

These structures consist of two levels: the upper level is spacious and elegantly designed, while the lower level has an irregular footprint. The craftsmanship of the upper level is intricate and meticulous, featuring a hip roof with upturned edges, decorative railings, and carved windows and doors. The lower level does not have formal rooms, but it is adorned with exquisite carvings, including golden melons and various animal heads and floral patterns. The houses are supported by stilts, allowing them to hang over the river, creating a unique scenic view. After rain, a thin mist rises above the Tuo River, reflecting the stilt houses in the water, making the entire architectural complex look like a timeless painting that captivates visitors.

Shiban Old Street is a narrow stone-paved street that is less than 5 meters wide, stretching from the entrance of Daomen to the west, passing through various streets including Cross Street, East Zheng Street, West Zheng Street, Huilong Pavilion, Yingxiao Chong, Doushan La, Jiegua Pavilion, and Shen Congwen’s Grave, ultimately leading to the “First Spring Under Heaven.” The street is over 3,000 meters long and is the most bustling commercial area in Fenghuang.

Wanming Pagoda is located on the northern bank of the Tuo River in Shawan, beautifully complemented by the nearby Xichang Pavilion and Rainbow Bridge. The pagoda is constructed from blue bricks, mixed mortar, and reinforced concrete, featuring a hexagonal shape with seven levels. Each level has six upturned corners and is adorned with hanging copper wind chimes. Standing at 22.98 meters tall, the first level has a diameter of 4.5 meters, decreasing by 0.3 meters for each successive level. The first level also displays six couplets written by famous individuals, showcasing a variety of themes and styles, either in praise or reflection.

Originally named Wohong Bridge, Rainbow Bridge is also known as the “Wind and Rain Pavilion.” It was built during the early Ming Dynasty under the Hongwu Emperor and is centrally located in Fenghuang. From the bridge, visitors can enjoy breathtaking views of Fenghuang City, with the picturesque scenery along both banks of the Tuo River in full view. The bridge consists of two levels: the lower level primarily houses shops and general stores, while the upper level serves as a folk culture center, featuring a collection of artworks and literature related to the history of the Rainbow Bridge and the Wind and Rain Pavilion from ancient times to the present.

Chaoyang Palace, also known as the Chen Family Ancestral Hall, is the best-preserved modern ancient building in Fenghuang Ancient Town. Located on the northwest side of the old city, it was constructed in the fourth year of the Republic of China by local gentry Chen Kaibing and Chen Kaifan, brothers of Chen Quzhen, who was also known as the “King of Xiangxi.” In 1923, Chen Quzhen, then the military leader of Xiangxi, expanded and completed the structure, resulting in a harmonious complex of 14 rooms, including the main hall, theater, side boxes, kitchen, and restrooms, all forming a typical southern courtyard layout. The building features double-eaved roofs with flying corners, three layers of bracket sets under the eaves, and colorful gourd finials at the peak. The entrance is marked by a stunning purple-red brick gatehouse, 8 meters tall, adorned with twelve intricately sculpted reliefs of landscapes and flowers. Directly facing the main hall is an ancient theater that frequently hosts performances of traditional operas, including Yang Opera, Nuo Opera, and Chenhe Opera.

Wanshou Palace is located in the scenic Shawan area outside the East Gate, bordered by Dongling Mountain and overlooking the Tuo River. It was originally built at the end of the Ming Dynasty and expanded in the 20th year of the Qianlong reign (1755). In 1854, Jiangxi native Yang Si constructed Xichang Pavilion on the west side, and in 1928, Yang Tower was built to the north of the main gate. This led to the formation of a large and uniquely designed architectural complex known for its delicate and intricate carvings. Opposite Wanshou Palace, locals built a temple on the hillside called Zhunti Temple (or Jiangxin Zen Temple), featuring two large round windows on the red earth wall facing Wanshou Palace.

The Tuo River Jumping Rocks are a popular scenic spot in Fenghuang Ancient Town. Originally built during the Tang Dynasty, they served as an essential pathway for entering the Wuzhai Sifang City of Qianzhou. The site was renovated in the 43rd year of the Kangxi reign (1704) and remains an ancient road connecting Fenghuang and Qiancheng. The Jumping Rocks were initially made up of over forty red rectangular stone pillars, spaced about two feet apart, allowing locals to carry goods into the city. However, during annual floods, many of these pillars would be washed away. In the Republican era, County Chief Li Zongqi added wooden planks on the pillars for easier crossing, but both the planks and pillars still suffered from floods. In 1950, after the establishment of the Fenghuang County People’s Government, the pillars were reinforced and enlarged, with two pillars combined into one, forming a total length of 100 meters with 15 stone pillars. Thick wooden planks were laid across, securely fastened with iron chains drilled into the riverbed, ensuring the structure remained intact.

The Miao Nationality Museum is located in the mysterious “Miao King’s Mansion” area of Fenghuang County, specifically in the Bagu Miao Village. Covering 1,864 square meters with a building area of 1,200 square meters, this museum is the largest and highest-quality private Miao museum in China, boasting the most extensive collection of exhibits. The museum features nine exhibition halls, including Miao Farmhouses, Ancient Dwellings, Wealthy Households, Warrior Homes, Shaman’s Huts, and a showcase of Miao clothing. It also includes a Miao Cultural Park and living area, housing over 10,000 artifacts related to various aspects of Miao life. The museum emphasizes family culture and integrates history, ethnicity, and artistry to showcase the tireless development and vibrant culture of the Miao people over thousands of years, presenting a captivating tapestry of their unique heritage.

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