Mount Heng (恒山, Hengshan Mountain, Mount Hengshan), located in Datong, Shanxi Province, is also known as “Taiheng Mountain” and historically referred to as “Xuanwu Mountain.” It serves as a crucial pass from the northern plateau to the central Hebei Plain. The mountain range originates from Yinshan, extends through Guancen Mountain, and ends at Taihang Mountain, stretching 500 kilometers from east to west with a total of 108 peaks. The main peak, Tianfeng Ridge, situated in Hunyuan County, stands at an elevation of 2,016.1 meters.
Mount Heng, one of the Five Great Mountains of China, holds the northern position among the Five Sacred Mountains, alongside Mount Tai in the east, Mount Hua in the west, Mount Heng in the south, and Mount Song in the center. It has long been renowned as a significant scenic destination in northern China and an important birthplace of Taoism. Legend has it that Zhang Guolao, one of the Eight Immortals, attained enlightenment on Mount Heng.
The scenic area includes Tianfeng Ridge, Cuiping Peak, and Qianfo Ridge. Currently, Cuiping Peak and Tianfeng Ridge are the developed tourist sites, with “visiting Mount Heng” typically referring to the Tianfeng Ridge scenic area. In spring, the mountain is adorned with blooming peach blossoms, with a flowering period lasting over 20 days, making it the best time to visit Mount Heng.
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Basic Information
Estimated Length of Tour | 1 day |
Ticket Price | Admission: 45 RMB Hanging Temple: 15 RMB |
Opening Hours | 08:30-16:00 (1st January – 29th February) 08:00-16:30 (1st March – 30th April) 07:00-16:30 (1st May – 5th May) 08:00-17:30 (6th May – 30th September) 08:00-16:30 (1st October – 31st October) 08:30-16:00 (1st November – 31st December) |
Telephone Number | 0086-0352-8480060 0086-0352-8322142 |
Location and Transportation
Mount Heng is located 10 kilometers south of Hunyuan County in Datong City, Shanxi Province. It is situated 62 kilometers away from downtown Datong. Due to the absence of high-speed trains directly to Hunyuan County, transportation options are somewhat limited. However, there are two main ways to reach Mount Heng:
Private Charter from Datong: First, travel to Datong Railway Station or Datong South Railway Station. From there, you can arrange for a private charter that will take you directly to Mount Heng and back to Datong City. The journey typically takes about 1 hour one way, and the cost of a round-trip charter varies from 360 to 500 RMB.
Public Transport: Take a long-distance bus from Datong to Hunyuan County. Upon reaching Hunyuan County, transfer to a minibus that goes to the front (望岳亭停车场) or rear (北岳行宫) of Mount Heng, or directly to the Hanging Temple (悬空寺). Alternatively, there are also one-day tour buses available for visiting Mount Heng.
Highlights of Mount Heng
Jinlong Gorge (金龙峡)
Jinlong Gorge, also known as Gold Dragon Gorge, is situated between Tianfeng Ridge and Cuiping Peak. This deep canyon features steep cliffs and narrow passageways, with the narrowest point being less than ten meters wide. Historically, it has been a strategic pass and a natural fortress. During the Northern Wei Dynasty, Emperor Daowu mobilized tens of thousands of soldiers to carve a road through the mountains here, creating a crucial gateway to and from central China. In the Song Dynasty, the famed general Yang Ye and his sons used this natural barrier to defend against foreign invaders.
Ancient engineers constructed wooden plank roads along the cliffs of the gorge, which included a high-altitude bridge connecting the eastern and western sides of Mount Heng, known collectively as the Yun Pavilion Rainbow Bridge. This structure later became one of Mount Heng’s eighteen famous scenes. Today, remnants of these ancient plank roads can still be seen on the cliff faces of Jinlong Gorge. The east cliff has about 200 meters of the ancient path, along with Ming and Qing dynasty inscriptions that read “清气 Clear Air.” The west cliff has around 80 meters of the ancient path and inscriptions that read “奇观 Spectacle.”
Peach Blossom Cave (桃花洞)
Peach Blossom Cave is one of the “Seven Palaces, Eight Caves, and Fifteen Temples” of Mount Heng, located on the Hengzong Peak behind the Zhenwu Hall. The cave’s entrance faces south and is over three meters high and nearly two and a half meters wide, extending about 15 meters deep. Legend has it that this cave was the retreat of the Peach Blossom Fairy. According to the tale, the fairy originally tended the peach orchard in the garden of the Queen Mother of the West. She later reincarnated into a wealthy family in the northern Yue region and was known for her love of peach blossoms, hence the name Peach Blossom Girl. She was revered for her skills in warding off evil and curing illnesses, gaining the affection and respect of the local people.
While the story of the Peach Blossom Fairy is a legend, the extraordinary flowers and scenery outside Peach Blossom Cave are real. The area is home to a large concentration of peach trees that have thrived for centuries, blooming vibrantly each spring. The blossoms, which bloom around the Qingming Festival, are a stunning red, resembling fragrant pearls or colorful clouds, adorning the valleys and signaling the arrival of spring.
Beiyue Temple (北岳庙)
Beiyue Temple, also known as Zhenyuan Hall or Yuanling Hall, is commonly referred to as the Chaodian or Worship Hall. Constructed during the Hongzhi period of the Ming Dynasty (1501–1502), it is the grandest temple in the Mount Heng region. Situated beneath the rocky cliffs on the southern side of the main peak, Dafu Ridge, the temple backs onto a sheer cliff and faces a valley. Leading to the entrance of Beiyue Temple is the Chongling Gate, a single-eaved Xieshan-style building with red doors studded with brass nails, green tiles, and red walls. The eastern side of the gate is flanked by the Qinglong Hall (Green Dragon Hall), and the western side by the Baihu Hall (White Tiger Hall), providing a majestic and symmetrical entry.
Hanging Temple (悬空寺)
The Hanging Temple, was established more than 1,400 years ago during the later period of the Northern Wei Dynasty. Perched approximately 50 meters above the ground, it is the only existing temple that integrates elements of Buddhism, Taoism, and Confucianism in China. The temple complex consists of 40 halls and pavilions, seemingly supported by only a few dozen slender wooden columns. However, some of these columns are merely decorative, leading to the saying, “Hanging Temple, hanging in mid-air, supported by three horse hairs.” The actual support structure relies on cantilevered beams partially embedded into the rock face, following principles of mechanics. The ingenuity of the Hanging Temple is evident in its construction, which utilizes the natural contours of the cliff to design and position the various buildings such as the main hall, bell tower, drum tower, and subsidiary halls. This vertical arrangement transforms the usual temple layout into a three-dimensional architectural marvel. The temple houses over 80 statues of Buddha, Taoist deities, and Confucian sages.
Immortal’s Cave (仙人洞府)
The Immortal’s Cave, known as Wuxuan Cave, is recognized as the fifth celestial grotto in Taoism. According to Taoist beliefs, there are thirty-six celestial grottos and seventy-two blessed lands, all considered abodes and recreational grounds for immortals. These sites are thought to be conduits to the heavens, places of good fortune and auspicious omens, revered by devotees and admired by the public. Taoist hermits, seeking seclusion and spiritual cultivation, often choose serene mountain locations with legendary associations to establish temples and retreats, aiming to embody and perpetuate the immortal spirit. Over the centuries, the Immortal’s Cave has served as a sanctuary for Taoist practitioners and a popular destination for pilgrims and tourists. The cave and its surroundings resonate with mystical charm and historical significance, attracting continuous streams of visitors seeking spiritual solace and cultural enrichment.
Eighteen Scenes in Mount Heng
1. Misty Rain in Magnetic Gorge (磁峡烟雨)
Also known as Jinlong Gorge, Magnetic Gorge lies between Tianfeng Ridge and Cui Ping Peak. The gorge is characterized by its towering cliffs and a narrow strip of sky visible above. In light rain, mist and haze create an enchanting atmosphere. A stream flows through the bottom of the gorge, adding to its beauty. The famous Ming Dynasty traveler Xu Xiake praised it as comparable to Yique and the Nine Bends of Wuyi Mountain.
2. Sweet and Bitter Dragon Spring (龙泉甘苦)
Located east of Baiyun Hall, Dragon Spring features two wells side by side, named Xuanwu Wells. One well’s water is sweet and refreshing, while the other’s water is bitter. Known as the Sweet and Bitter Wells, they are said to have been named by Emperor Tang Minghuang himself. Visitors often come to taste the water and tea from these wells, seeking blessings and good fortune.
3. Cloud Pavilion and Rainbow Bridge (云阁虹桥)
Situated at the narrowest part of Jinlong Gorge, this ancient plank road is a marvel of engineering. Built into the cliffs, wooden planks supported by beams created a path for travelers. A high bridge, known as the Cloud Pavilion and Rainbow Bridge, connected the eastern and western sides of the gorge. Legend has it that the bridge was built overnight by Lu Ban’s sister. Remnants of the road and bridge can still be seen today.
4. Pine Suspended Over Tiger’s Mouth (虎口悬松)
At the stone steps of Biyun Road’s wind gap, stands a majestic ancient pine tree known as the Suspended Root Pine. Its roots cling tenaciously to the rocks, providing shade. Legend says the roots were pulled out when Zhang Guolao’s magical donkey, frightened, tried to uproot the tree.
5. Immortal’s Trace (果老仙迹)
On the way up from Suspended Root Pine is Guolao Ridge. The path here features small round pits that resemble donkey hoof prints. These are said to be the hoof prints of Zhang Guolao’s magical donkey left during his time cultivating immortality on Mount Heng.
6. Cloud Path at Dawn (云路春晓)
The Cloud Path stretches from Yuemen Bay to Hengzong Hall, known as the Ten-Mile Cloud Path. It was once dotted with pavilions and pine trees, offering breathtaking views at every step. Landmarks along the way include Daziyuan and the Four Confucian Pines.
7. Birds Crying on the Cliff (断崖啼鸟)
Gushao Cliff, also known as Sheer Sacrifice Cliff, is a steep section of the mountain where legend says a sister-in-law and her sister threw themselves off the cliff. The sister transformed into a lark and the sister-in-law into a cuckoo, eternally flying together on the cliff.
8. Sunset on the Precipice (危岩夕照)
Located on the east side of Guolao Ridge, Xiyang Ridge is a towering cliff that faces west. At sunset, the cliffs are bathed in a golden glow, creating a picturesque scene. “The remaining light reflects the thousand colors of the mountain, entering the painting from the entire valley” is a famous description of this spot.
9. Rooster Crows at Dawn (金鸡报晓)
Near the ancient tower west of Chaodian, there is a green stone resembling an ancient bell. When struck, it emits a sound similar to a rooster crowing, hence the name. Legend has it that a rooster transformed after consuming a magical pill dropped by an immortal.
10. Smoke from Three Thatched Caves (茅窟烟火)
Sanmao Cave is located next to Ziwei Pavilion at Baixu Temple. It is said to be the site where three Taoist immortals cultivated. The caves exhibit a mysterious phenomenon: when a fire is lit in one cave, smoke emerges from the other two. This natural mystery adds to the cave’s intrigue.
11. Music on the Chessboard Platform (奕台鸣琴)
Chess and Qin (Chinese zither) Platform is a large rock located northwest of Huixian Palace. The rock features an engraved chessboard and the characters for “Chess and Qin Platform.” Legend has it that immortals played chess and music here.
12. Jade Sheep Roaming the Clouds (玉羊游云)
From Chaodian, one can see the eastern peak topped with white stones resembling a flock of sheep grazing. As the clouds move, the stones appear to roam, creating a fascinating sight.
13. Five-Color Stone Painting (脂图文锦)
Located on the east cliff of the main peak, the Stone Painting is a natural formation of colorful stones resembling an ancient tablet with tadpole-like characters. The shadow of pine and cypress trees on the stone adds to its unique appearance, making it a rare and beautiful sight.
14. Pine Wind on the Peak (岳顶松风)
At the summit of Tianfeng Ridge, visitors are treated to panoramic views of the surrounding mountains. The sound of the wind through the pine trees and the majestic scenery make this a must-visit spot on Mount Heng.
15. Flying Stone Cave (幽窟飞石)
At the northern end of Gushao Cliff is Flying Stone Cave, a large natural cave. According to legend, when Emperor Shun toured the north, a stone flew from Mount Heng and landed in front of him, which he named “Anwang Stone.” The cave contains various features like a sleeping palace and a dressing tower.
16. Immortal’s Drunken Moon (仙府醉月)
Huixian Palace, the highest temple on Mount Heng, offers stunning views. Spending the night here, enjoying the moonlight and composing poetry, gives a feeling of otherworldly detachment. The palace is said to be a gathering place for immortals.
17. Purple Valley’s Cloud Flowers (紫峪云花)
Purple Mushroom Valley, located east of Hengzong Hall, is a winding, vegetated gorge. The valley is said to grow sacred mushrooms, considered a treasure of Mount Heng, reputed to have life-extending properties. Emperor Ming Shizong is said to have collected twelve such mushrooms from here.
18. Clouds from the Stone Cave (石洞流云)
Located on the eastern cliff of Purple Mushroom Valley, Outcloud Cave bears the inscription “White Cloud Spirit Cave.” The cave is said to be bottomless and connected to the dragon palace under the sea. When rain is due, white mist emerges from the cave, followed by wind and rain, giving rise to the saying, “When Mount Heng wears a hat, rain is imminent.”